Week One

I'm at the point where so much has happened that it seems overwhelming to even begin to tell. So I'll just jump in as if you had asked me, "How have things been? " (Which, I might add, typically means that I verbally share any if not all of the information that flies around in my head at any given moment, typically bringing things around with a tidy wrap-up, as if one couldn't understand Z without first understanding A through Y in order.)

Things are awesome. The school is wonderful, the parents are wonderful, the kids are amazing. Our friends are amazing. Every single person we have talked to has been kind, friendly, interested and helpful. I'm not naive, and I know that it may not be this way always, but I am happy to generalize that Madrileños like 40 year old American women with exceptionally adorable children. (I may stop feeding them, to keep them young and cute.) (That is a joke. Do not call CPS. I will feed my children. But only if the food keeps them cute.)

Last week was carnaval in Madrid Carnavales 2012 and at school. The boys picked out their very first store-bought outfits and on Friday afternoon went to a party at school which I had to miss in order to finalize the acquisition of our apartment. (Night view is from our living room.) Jesús was kind enough to accompany me to help in case I had any questions concerning the legal documents I would be signing. Although my new landlord Isabel seems kind and responsible, I appreciated having a witness. All seemed to go well without a hitch (until the first day fully in the apartment when the washing machine's door handle broke off in my hand, but that is another story..)

After turning over the first month's rent and deposit, I left Jesús and Isabel, running with all 9 necessary keys in hand in order to make it to school on time. Because the boys go to el colegio from 9-12:30 and again from 2:30 to 4:30, I have two big windows to get s#*t done, yet it never seems like enough time! Our dear friend Jody arrived from Tel Aviv on Friday night, right upon showing the boys their new home. Because of our move, the timing was less than ideal to host, but she took it in stride and with great grace, as she always does. It was wonderful to see her, and I greatly look forward to settling in with her when she returns from Granada.

After a very quick tour of the apartment, we introduced Jody to the Madurga-López family and bought her ticket online to Granada. I made the casual comment that our apartment had not been thoroughly cleaned and was curious about what was expected of me when we leave. I am starting to realize that I need to be careful what I say for our friends are lurking, waiting for the opportunity to swoop in and perform their magic. In less than 30 seconds, Jose had someone scheduled from his business to come the next morning at 9 AM. (She put the couch cover on, put fresh sheets on the bed and cleaned it Spanish-style (REALLY clean.)) Seriously - no one kicks ass like these folks. No one. 

Later that evening Jody, Luzia, Jesus, the boys and I met for tapas at the neighborhood bar; this was our last evening staying at their house. These friends and their family are absolutely amazing: kind, loving, generous, reliable, patient and understanding. They warmly accommodated us for over a week, taking turns sleeping on the couch so we could have Luzia's bedroom.

We spent our last night in their house around the kitchen table, visiting with Jody and pasándolo de fruta madre (having a ducking great time) until Luzia and Jody returned to christen our apartment with their overnight presence.

SATURDAY:

In the morning we went again to the Retiro with the kids, Jody, Jose and Ana to watch the various attractions and stroll about. Puppet shows, magic shows, fortune tellers, bubble blowers, boat rides, bird watching, people watching, incredible architecture - this park is the city's jewel. It is HUGE, and merely minutes from our house on foot. On our way we pass by a churreria where you can buy churros con chocolate. If this makes you envision the disgusting churros they sell at the fair or Taco Bell, let me assure you that, outside of the shape, they have nothing in common. Churros here are meant to be eaten hot, and they are similar in taste and texture to an unsweetened old-fashioned donut right off the stove. It is typical to dip them in sugar or in a very thick hot chocolate made from - MELTED CHOCOLATE. Fine chocolate. Not that oily crap we eat in the US. Delicious. Amazing. And since you are going to walk for three hours non-stop without noticing, it is somehow ok to eat them.

After the park we went to lunch at a fabulous restaurant close to the Retiro. Lunches out are typically a minimum of two hours long, and this one was no different. Our meal consisted of:
To start: vermouth on the rocks, oven-roasted potatoes, mini-sausages for the meat-eaters, anchovy-stuffed olives (which made me love both green olives and anchovies the first time I tried them,) razor clams that dissolved as you ate them (if you love the sweet taste of slightly burned butter on the plancha you would have appreciated them greatly) naturally sweet and plump mussels that literally melted in your mouth, fish croquettes and I don't even remember what other delicious, amazing, oral-gasmic things I stuffed down my gullet. The main meal consisted of a huge pot of buttery, stewed vegetables with merluza (similar in taste and texture to lobster,) seasoned with olive oil, garlic and paprika. The bread, although it is present at EVERY Spanish meal, is always worth mentioning. We finished things off with a fine sampling of desserts: flan, pudding, ice cream and, of course, a stiff cup of perfectly brewed espresso. As a gift to the table we had our choice of their house liquors, either Paxaran - a liquor made from cinammon and fruit (which I have the recipe for!) or another from a variety of herbs. If you come to Spain for anything, it is to eat. There is a reason that there is an entire TV show based on the food from Spain, for it is practically IMPOSSIBLE to eat poorly. They take great pride in their food; it is easy to find fresh, local options for incredibly low prices by our standards. If I spend $250 at our local, organic grocery, the equivalent here is less than HALF the price.

Later in the afternoon Hugo and I took Atticus to his very first birthday party in Spain! The school is small with one class per grade but thank goodness everyone loves soccer, and he has bonded with his compañeros over the sport, especially Javi. Although Atticus is still in the input phase of language acquisition and hasn't yet gotten comfortable with so much eye contact, this boy has been kind, generous and inclusive. ALL of the kids have been kind and inclusive. To watch my child walk into a movie theater with his new friends' arms around his neck, everyone comfortable with his reservation and accepting him for who he is, brought me to tears. As for Hugo, the subway ride home, Jody's presence and the anticipation of dumping legos out onto the floor for the first time in weeks made his night.

We returned to our new apartment surprised to discover that our amazing friends had moved ALL of our things into the new place AND stocked the apartment with towels, sheets, dinnerware, cleaning supplies etc. etc. Again, amazing. (¡¡¡MUCHISIMAS GRACIAS!!!) My friend's mom Marisol had collected supplies for an entire home. Linens. Towels. Trash bags, napkins, sugar. You name it. I absolutely cannot wait to do the same for them if they ever come; it is hard to pry a Spaniard from their home base.

Marisol is an amazing, intelligent woman and incredible cook. She can carry on a profound and inspiring conversation, makes homemade chocolate truffles and has taken up painting in the last few years. Best of all, she is always smiling. I adore her.

And Ana, Luzia's mother. Any child could only hope to have a mother as dedicated as she. Kind, generous, loving, funny and hard-working, I adore her as well. I feel so fortunate to know these three women.

And now I must go to bed. More to come, I hope soon.

SUNDAY: the Langley family